Chevrolet Door Module Post-Repair

Chevrolet Door Module Post-Repair Troubleshooting Guide

Important: Use this guide if you reinstalled your repaired Chevrolet Door Module and the problem is still happening.
Important: Please do not open/disassemble the module. Opening the module can damage it and may void warranty coverage.

Common symptoms this guide helps with:

• Door locks not working
• Driver-side left door window not working
• Driver-side left door lock button not working
• Passenger-side right door lock button not working
• Passenger-side right door window not working

Step 1: Confirm what’s failing (and what still works)

• Does the issue affect the driver door, passenger door, or both?
• Do the windows move from the door switch, from another switch, or not at all?
• Do locks respond from the key fob, interior buttons, or only one side?

Step 2: Perform a simple power reset

• Key OFF, remove key, wait 2 minutes.
• Key ON and retest locks/windows.
  Intermittent issues can return to normal after a full sleep/wake cycle.

Step 3: Check vehicle battery voltage and recent battery events
Low voltage or a recent jump-start can cause door modules to act up.

• If you recently replaced the battery, jump-started, or had a dead battery, correct that first and retest.

Step 4: Check fuses related to locks/windows
Use the fuse legend and check any fuse labeled:

• PWR WDO / PWR ACCY / DOOR LOCK / BCM / RAP
  If a fuse is blown, don’t keep replacing it—inspect for a shorted actuator, window motor, or pinched wiring.

Step 5: Confirm the door module connector is fully seated

• Key OFF.
• Unplug and firmly reseat the connector until the lock fully clicks.
• Inspect for:
  • Bent pins
  • Pushed-back pins
  • Corrosion/green residue
  • Moisture/water marks

Step 6: Inspect the door-jamb wiring boot (most common vehicle-side cause)
The harness between the door and body flexes constantly and often breaks internally.

• Gently pull back the rubber boot and inspect wiring for:
  • Broken/partially broken wires
  • Cracked insulation
  • Previous repairs/splices
    If multiple functions in the same door fail (window + lock + switch), suspect broken wires here first.

Step 7: If only ONE function fails, isolate the component

• If locks don’t work but windows do:
  • Suspect the door lock actuator, lock switch, or wiring to that actuator.
• If windows don’t work but locks do:
  • Suspect the window motor/regulator, window switch, or wiring to the motor.
• If only one door fails (driver OR passenger), focus on that door’s actuator/motor/switch and harness.

Step 8: Scan for body/door-related codes (if you have a scan tool)

• Scan BCM/body modules and note any lock/window/communication codes.
• Clear codes and see what returns after operating the locks/windows.
  Codes that immediately return usually point to wiring, actuator/motor load, or power/ground.

Step 9: Check for signs of water intrusion
If the problem happens after rain or washing the car:

• Inspect inside the door for moisture at the connector area and along the harness.
• A wet connector can cause intermittent locks/windows.

Step 10: Reconfirm “original to vehicle” and recent part changes
If the vehicle recently had:

• Door replacement
• Window regulator replacement
• Aftermarket alarm/remote start
• Speaker/audio work in the door
  Then inspect the areas that were worked on for pinched wiring, loose grounds, or incorrect connectors.

Step 11: What to send UpFix if the issue continues

• VIN
• Which door is affected (driver/passenger/both)
• Which functions fail (window, lock, switch, fob) and what still works
• Any fuse that was found blown
• Any scan codes from BCM/body modules
• Clear photos of the connector/pins and any wiring damage found in the door-jamb boot