(Use this only if you’re still having issues after our ECU service.)
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Step 1 – Confirm ECU is powering up
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Battery must be fully charged (12.4–12.7V KOEO).
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Check all ECU/ENGINE/IGN fuses in under-hood and interior boxes.
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Turn key ON and listen/feel for main relay and fuel-pump relay clicking.
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If relays don’t click, recheck ignition switch power feed and grounds.
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Step 2 – If you still have U0100 / P0600 (no communication)
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Verify scan tool is set to the correct year/engine and OBD connector is fully seated.
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Check continuity from OBD-II pin 7 (K-line) to the ECU diagnostics pin.
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Make sure no aftermarket alarm/remote-start is spliced into the ECU or OBD wiring.
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Repair any damaged wiring, corroded connectors, or added devices and retest.
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Step 3 – If the engine cranks but will not start
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Check for RPM signal on your scan tool while cranking; if 0, inspect crank/cam sensors and wiring.
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Confirm you have spark at the plugs and injector pulse with a noid light or test light.
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If no spark and no injector pulse but ECU powers up, focus on crank sensor, igniter/coil wiring, and engine grounds.
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Step 4 – If it starts but runs poorly / stalls or shows P0601–P0605 / P1600 again
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Clear all codes, drive or idle the car until the fault returns, then re-scan.
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Inspect all ECU grounds to the engine and chassis; clean and tighten if any are rusty or loose.
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Check for low system voltage while running (alternator or main ground issues can cause “internal ECU” codes).
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Verify no other modules or add-ons are sharing ECU power/ground in a way that could pull voltage down.
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Step 5 – When to look beyond the ECU
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If powers/grounds, fuses, relays, sensors, and wiring all test good, remaining issues are likely in vehicle wiring, sensors, ignition components, or fuel system rather than the ECU.
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At this point we recommend a full in-vehicle diagnosis with a professional technician who can scope signals and load-test circuits.
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